Ribe Cathedral – The Church of Our Lady

 

Ribe Cathedral has an amazing ability to combine old and new, and has now
been awarded the maximum 3 stars in the Michelin Guide, that reviews and rates attractions other than restaurants. The top rating means "worth a trip", and is only given to a few. In Jutland oly one other place got 3 Michelin stars this time
You can read the history of Ribe Cathedral here.

 

The Nordic gods Thor and Odin and the first Christian Church in Denmark

When the catholic monk Ansgar arrived in Denmark around year 826, the Danes still worshipped the Nordic gods such as Thor and Odin. Ansgar' s purpose was to convert the Danes to Christianity. During this period, i.e. the early Viking era around year 800, Ribe was already a major trading town.  For that reason the area and town was an obvious choice for the missionary. This was the area where Ansgar would try to build the first Christian Church in what is now Denmark.  About 855 Ansgar obtained some land from the Danish King Horik. We don’t know for certain the location of the first church in Ribe. Possibly it could be at Ribelund  - behind the railway station. At this location archaeologists have excavated early Christian burial grounds. The bodies were buried with their heads facing east, so they would rise from the dead in the right position.

 

	Odin from Ribe - a Nordic God

However, no reliable written source tells about the activities of Christianity in Ribe the next 100 years, but in 948 the first bishop of Ribe, Leofdag, is mentioned. This was shortly before Denmark was officially converted to Christianity.

In the late 900s was the Viking town of Ribe fortified with moat and a rampart. This fortification was probably decided by King Harald Bluetooth (Harald Blåtand).

Around the year 1000 the bishop of Ribe had all Jutland under him. No doubt that Ribe was an important town of commerce and also the Danish Gateway to the West. Until 1600 the town flourished as Denmark's most important harbour.

In the 12th century was the importance of Ribe stated with the building of Ribe Cathedral and Riberhus Castle.

 

 

Catastrophic events after construction of Ribe Cathedral

 

Construction of the present day Ribe Cathedral started about the year 1150 and was finished in about 1250. Granite was scarce so only a little was used, for instance in the foundation of the church and for bases and pillars.  Most of the church was built of sandstone and volcanic tufa imported from Germany. 

Ribe Cathedral was oddly enough originally built on a low rise. Today, however, it lies in a depression, due to medieval debris, such as ashes, discarded building materials, etc. has increased the elevation of the surrounding area.

Anyhow, Ribe Cathedral is still the unmistakable landmark of the town. and can be seen miles away in the flat marshes.

 

Mark of the flood 1634

Since its construction catastrophic events such as fires, structural failures, floods and storms have hit the cathedral. The marks of the flood of 1634 can be seen on one of the columns in the church.  Right after morning mass on Christmas Day in 1283 the north stairway tower collapsed and many people were killed.  Ensuing this calamity the great red Commoner’s Tower was built.  The church itself occupied the two lower floors of the tower, while the municipality made use of the upper sections as a watchtower, archive and treasury.  From this high position citizens could look out for fires, enemies and  flooding ensuing western storms.  Around 1600 eight canons were installed in the tower. During The Swedish War when the Swedes in 1644  assaulted Riberhus, the Danes fired at the enemy from the tower.

 

Be sure to climb the inside of the Commoner’s Tower.  It is 52 meters (170 feet) high with 248 steps.  In clear weather one can enjoy a scenic view with the spacious landscape expanding in a radius of about 30 to 35km (19 to 22 miles).  On such clear days it is possible to see the city of Esbjerg and the North Sea islands of Rømø, Mandø, and Fanø.

 

The Cathedral at Ribe is built in the Romanesque style.  Although certain parts of the church later were constructed in a Gothic style, it is still one of the country`s best preserved Romanesque Cathedrals. Many additions have been added to the church over time and today it stands as the only 5-aisled church in Denmark. 

 

	Ribe Cathedral and the Commoner’s Tower

Ribe Cathedral during the Middle Ages.

 

During the Middle Ages the cathedral had great wealth, including silver, houses, land and farms.

It was customary to present gifts to the church in return for which the priests would hold smaller masses for the donors at their funerals.

Rich people from the area bought a tomb inside the  cathedral. Two kings are buried in the cathedral. One of them, Erik Emune, died in 1137 and the other, Christopher the First, died in 1259. 

Aside from these there are several wealthy people who have paid large sums in order to be among the privileged who are buried within the church and during the 13th and 14th centuries the floor of the cathedral was covered with gravestones. Those who could afford it could buy an altar or a mortuary.

When buried in the cathedral the dead souls could take part in the daily masses and prayers.      

 

During the Middle Ages extensive, formal ceremonies and religious services took place daily with or without members of the congregation attending.   

Catholic Bishop Ivar Munk

Often people would enter the church while the service was in process, they would come either to pray, to light a candle at an altar or they would come for confession.   50 altars were placed at different locations within the church and more than 40 masses were held each day. Such a level of activity required many priests.  The primary priests were called canons.  At the large and beautiful masses the canons sat in the 21 wooden chairs which today are placed in front of the altar.  It was only the affluent who could afford and pay the poor priests to hold masses for them exclusively.  The bishop, of course, was at the top of the clerical hierarchy. He had much power and was quite wealthy.

The last Catholic Bishop was Ivar Munk . On his large gravestone in the Cathedral you can see him depicted with rings on all his fingers.  He was a very prosperous man and seemed to have spent most of his time keeping track of the reserves of the church as well as his own assets.  After being appointed as bishop it took a number of years – thirteen years actually  - before he lead a religious service. 

 

	Memorial to Admiral and Vassal Albert Skeel

The Reformation in 1536

 

Following the Reformation in 1536 the catholic bishop was deposed and the king seized the property of the church.  Implementing the reformation was a slow process in Ribe. The town had twelve churches and four convents, all providing a significant source of income for the town.  Eventually, however, the figures of the saints and the catholic altars disappeared and the services started being conducted in the Danish language.  A service could last as long as three to five hours. For that reason it was common to buy a seat in the church.  Those who had the means set up gravestones and memorials for themselves.  One of the  finest memorials is in memory of Admiral and Vassal Albert Skeel (died 1639)  - and his wife. For others epitaphs were hung.  One such richly decorated example is from 1650, made for Mette Christensdatter and her first and second husband.  Both these husbands were officials at Riberhus.

 

Decorations by Cobra-artist C. H. Pedersen

Ribe Cathedral today

 

In 1983 the famous COBRA-artist Carl Henning Pedersen decorated the chancel (the circular area around the altar). The apse is now full of colourful frescoes, mosaics and stained glass.  The fantasy figures, people, horses, stars and ships fill the space and the changing light continuously alters the scene.  The combination of colours and light create a beautiful experience.  With this piece of contemporary art our era has left its mark on the old cathedral. 

	Hymn writer Hans Adolph Brorson

Two statues stand outside the church:

One shows Hans Tausen. He is considered the protagonist of the Danish reformation and was also one of the first Bishops in Ribe after the Reformation.

The other statue shows the poet and hymn writer Hans Adolph Brorson  -  also one of the bishops of Ribe. Daily, at 8 AM and 6 PM one can hear Brorson`s Danish hymn  “Now Found is the Fairest of Roses.” played from the cathedral carillon. 

The building “Tårnborg” at Puggårdsgade - formerly the home of Brorson – is now a Brorson Research- and Cultural Center.

 

Kathoveddøren (The Cat’s Head Door) is considered one of the oldest bronze doors in these lands.   Actually the door depicts a lion’s head surrounded by four dragons symbolizing the strength of the church in the midst of an unfriendly world.  In the old days people believed a criminal could be saved from punishment if he could grab hold of the ring on the door while fleeing. He was then sinless and inviolable.

The scene above the door was carved in the twelve century during the reign of King Valdemar the Victorious.   This king and his queen, Dagmar, had close ties to Ribe. 

The scene depicts King Valdemar carrying a cross to the Virgin Mary.  Next to the king stands his second wife Queen Bengerd while Queen Dagmar’s head is depicted under her husband`s head.

 

Every day at noon and 3 PM, the carillon at the cathedral plays a certain cantabile, a tune from a well known ballad referring to queen Dagmar.   Listen to the cathedral carillon here: “Queen Dagmar lies ill in Ribe”

 

"The Cat’s Head Door"

The high relief depicting Jesus being released from the crucifix is a primary work among romanesque granite sculptures in Jutland.  Details shows Joseph of Aramithea and Nicodemus ready to remove the nails and lower the body of Christ.  Mary has taken hold of her son’s hand. To the right stands a mourning John.  Below is the inscription: “The king is dead, she is crying, the beloved one mourn and the conscience-stricken pray.”

 

© Danhostel Ribe Hostel, Denmark. The story may be used by our guests for private use and for education - and by others by  using a link to Danhostel Ribe. Any other use requires permission.

 

References:

Ebbe Nyborg: Ribe Domkirke – Vor Frue Kirke (Ribe Cathedral – Our Lady’s Church)

Søren Mulvad: Ribe Domkirke, Skoleudgave (Ribe Cathedral, School Edition)

Vilh. Lorenzen: De gamle danske domkirker (The Old Danish Cathedrals)

Ribe Turistbureau: : Carl Henning Pedersen i Ribe Domkirke (Carl Henning Pedersen in Ribe Cathedral)